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Food you can't miss in Old Delhi

Purani Dilli is heaven for food lovers in winter, and for all things sweet, savoury and spicy.


Freshly-baked naan khatai. (Below) The chaat spread; Gobhi samosa and matar kachori; Charcoal-grilled paneer tikka.

Chaat, Chowk Hauz Qazi, Chawri Bazaar corner
Ashok Chat Corner has been satiating chaat-lovers' hunger and souls since Independence days. More than 70 years old, the place enjoys such a large fan following that should you reach a little late into the evening, you might not get everything on the menu. Be it their papdi chat, my favourite, with its topping of saunth and slivers of kachaloo, or crunchy golgappas, aaloo masala, kalmi bada and chaat gunjiya, this is your heaven for everything chaat and spicy. If that already had your mouth watering, there's more on the menu.


Gobhi samosa, matar kachori, Chawri Bazaar
Shyam sweets down the busy lane might be everyone's go-to shop for things that you like and stuff that you have never even heard of. Slowly and steadily reaching its century, the establishment can make you a regular with its bedmi poori (made of flour and urad daal) and aloo ki sabzi, available only till 1. I, however, was awe-struck with gobhi samosaand all-time favourite matar kachori. A quick chat with co-owner Sanjay Aggarwal made me enter bhindi and raw banana samosa in the list for next trip. Their rabdi is also lip-smacking; I overheard someone pay a compliment, “Dhampur bhi fail hai. (this even beats Dhampur's sugar.)”
Naan khatai, Balli Maran
While walking through Balli Maran towards Gali Qasim Jaan for Ghalib's Haveli, expect your nose and taste-buds to be suddenly tempted with the aroma of freshly-baked goods. As you follow the smell trail, you would find yourself at this cart selling home-made cookies – naan khatai. These melt-in-mouth, baked-to-perfection naan khatai can transport you to your childhood days in a flash.
Dahi bade, Natraj, near Bhati Mati Das Chowk
There are dahi badas and then there is Natraj ka dahi bada. Started in 1940, this small shop at the corner of the lane that takes you to the metro station is always full of customers. The bada made of coarsely ground batter, topped with thick fresh dahi and sweet and sour chutney and a Natraj-special masala is supremely filling and refreshing.
Paneer tikka, Nai Sarak
Old Delhi can make you succumb to its flavours even on a full stomach. Just as I decided to call it a day after having had my fill of food I saw this vendor making paneer tikka on his coal grill. Even if you could ignore the aroma, the visual delight would make the foodie in you give in to the temptation. 
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